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quarta-feira, 9 de setembro de 2015

3D Router!!! E uma máquina 3D sem CNC, Uma Fonte de Alimentação, e Porcas nas peças

Isto resolve-vos uma incrível quantidade de problemas, com as Ferramentas que já têem em casa, e pouco mais, é mesmo algo de insidpensável, para muito Engenhocas...

Uma gigajoga que fura, fresa, corta em 2D, e esculpe em 3D, usando apenas Bitolas, e Moldes... 
Isto é muito, mas muito bom!



3D Router: When a CNC machine is overkill

Paoson Luthier 
The idea arose after dealing with the difficulties and loss of time in preparing for certain CNC jobs. Sometimes I spent more time preparing for the CNC than the work itself. With this manual router, you can make holes or mill very fast. A universal 43mm collet makes it very versatile and you can change the milling tool to drill very fast.
There are certainly lots of wooden router table and CNC router plans floating around in cyberspace. What makes this project noteworthy are the feature set and the cleverness of how it’s all put together and designed for maximum versatility. This router table can be used as a 3-axis drill press, sanding station, a 2D router, and you can do simple shapes 3D milling via a reference model. Using a series of accessories, you can also cut circles, straight-cut squares, and cut to a 2D reference model.
The uses of this tool are varied. I am a guitar maker and my plan consists of devising several templates of guitar bodies and necks to be made with the 3D Router, without switching on my CNC. Besides, it can also be used for other woodwork tasks. I have tried to make a design which can be easily built, with rather simple and cheap parts.
Overall dimensions: 800mm high, 740mm width and 700mm depth.
Useful dimensions: 425mm in X Axis, 535mm in Y axis and 185mm in Z axis. 









Transformar uma Placa numa espécie de tecido, flexível, e fácil de curvar, é o  que este Corte CNC faz, por isso, tomem nota desta maravilha, já há cortes que permitem a dobra numa direcção, mas este, é em duas direcções:



Super flexible double curvature surface - laser cut plywoodkofaktorlab 

Carl Friedrich Gauss distinguishes between three types of curved surfaces, single curved - neutral (cylindrical), and double curved - negative (hyperboloid) and positive (spherical).
Curved surfaces are very attractive, especially negative double curved surfaces, but also very complicated to perform. What’s interesting about them in constructive terms is the increase in stiffness and load capacity as the surface is bent in one and two directions.
In a small book DIGITAL Gehry Material Resistance Digital Construction (Bruce Lindsey, Bitkhäuser 2001) writes that if flat piece cost one dollar, single curvature piece cost two dollars, double curvature piece cost ten dollars. This is true for all materials wood, metal, plastic, glass, concrete ...
It is immediately clear why some engineers are crazy about double curved surfaces and are constantly trying to find a method that can simplify and cheapen the process.
From time to time I search the Internet on that matter. One day I stumbled upon the wooden book covers that can be done on a laser cutter, with interesting technical solution of the spine; wooden board is slit in such a way that can be bend like rubber. 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-flexible-duble-curvature-surface-laser-cut-p/






Este é, sem dúvida, o melhor Projecto para transformar Sucata de Computador numa Fonte de Alimentação, e uma que é regulável e uma ajuda valiosa para a Oficina:




Super recycled benchtop power supply

juaspo

Working with electronics you are bound to need different voltage sources for your projects. So having a good and reliable benchtop power supply is way, way, waaay easier and more convenient than having to combine batteries in different ways or trying to find a power adaptor that can deliver just that right amount of voltage.
Now, obviously you can easily get one of those pro made power supplies by trading a sh*t load of money for it. But in my opinion that is both less fun, easier, more safe and less recyclingy...(that should be a word) and also it costs more... and will make a less interesting instructable... unless you tend to review them...
Anyhow this is not going to be a full super detailed instructable on how to mod a PSU to a benchtop PS since there is a ton of those all around but rather give some tips and inspiration and show how I did mine. 
  








..E se uma simples Rosca se transforma numa dor-de-cabeça, para mandar imprimir em 3D, porque não usar uma Porca, que já tem Rosca?
E para não ter a Rosca solta, nem partir a peça, o melhor, é esta ideia completamente genial,
Usar calor para encaixar perfeitamente uma peça, aquecendo a porca um pouco, o que práticamente solda o plástico à porca... 




Making Custom Threaded Inserts (3D Printing)

PeterM13
Many times when you print a downloaded part, the fastener holes or hex recesses are too tight. Other times, the type or size fastener that the design requires is just not available, which happens a lot here on Maui. The Item pictured here is a spindle bracket to replace the motor on a ShapeOko CNC router. Since the fasteners on the original machine were metric fasteners, the new bracket was designed the same. The problem was that the 3" long clamp bolts were not available at all. The through holes were of the proper size to be able to accept a length of 10-24 TPI all thread. That meant I could substitute a hand-made bolt assembly for the designed fasteners, but the recess for the nuts on the back side were too small to accept the 10-24 nuts. My solution was to double nut the threaded shaft and use heat to insert the nuts into the recess forming an insert that had a threaded shaft attached.  




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